Game Meats
Game meats like buffalo, alligator, kangaroo, ostrich, rabbit, fowl and
venison are often leaner, especially when taken from the wild or grown
under conditions that mimick the wild. But the real interest in game meat
is in its richer, sometimes spicier taste profile. The perfect liquid
accompaniment to the richness of game meats requires a good degree of
flavor and structure; think wine!
The best wines to pair with game come in three colors: red, white and
rose. And the best within each color category offer full flavors that
are sometimes spicy, like the ginger/lychee qualities of Gewurztraminer
(white wine) or the crisp, full, fruity qualities of Riesling. The
benchmark for great Gewurztraminer is Alsace, along the French border
with the Rhine River, and the benchmark for great Riesling is Germany and
Austria. But the grapes also do well in the Finger Lakes region of New
York and in parts of northern Italy.
Austria's version of white wine for game meat is Gruner Veltliner, a wine
with the taste of white pepper. This wine also is one of the rare wines
that matches with rich vegetables like asparagus.
The dark pepper-like sensation of Shiraz/Syrah (the same red grape
variety under two names) is a fine example of wine for lamb, but even
finer with many game meats. Blended wines that combine Grenache,
Mourvedre or Cinsault with Syrah/Shiraz heighten the wine's ability to
match game meats.
Some northern Italian wines like Barbera, Barbarseco and a wine called
Schiopettino often pair quite well with game meats, especially boar which
is available in Italy and sometimes appears on butcher shelves in the
United States.
Some Grenache wines come in dry rose style; they are wonderful with game
meats, especially when both the meat and the wine are slightly chilled,
as for a picnic. Other rose wines made from Pinot Noir can also be good
with the spice of game meats.
A great place to get game meats in Manhattan is Ottomanelli's on Bleeker Street.