So much has been written about red meat with red wine that it is difficult to say anything new on the subject, but we shall try with this sentiment: it isn't the color that counts. Sure, red meat, especially a cut cooked on the rare side, is a good match for an elegant red wine that is velvety and smooth yet finishes with firm tannins. But not all red wines are suited to red meat (if you disagree, try a grilled steak, rare, with Chianti, or read our fish, poultry and vegetable pages).
In our opinion, the best red wines for a fine steak are those produced from the classic Bordeaux grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and a few lesser-known varieties. In Argentina, where beef is king, Malbec is often the preferred wine.
But add black pepper to the steak, as in steak au poivre, and you have a completely different situation. Steak prepared with pepper or any other hot spice needs an equally peppery wine like Shiraz/Syrah or Mouvedre, or a blend of the two. The same can be said for lamb dishes except in this case it is not heat that cries out for a peppery wine--it is the gamey flavor of the lamb.
In Burgundy, beef and the mighty Pinot Noir marry, but in the New World many Pinot Noirs are lighter and fruitier than their French counterparts. For that reason, many lamb eaters prefer New World Pinot Noir. Light and Fruity sometimes make a fine contrasting accompaniment to the intensity of lamb. But a lot of lamb preparations include sweetened mint jelly. If overdone, the sweet flavor of the mint jelly gets in the way of most red wines. Next time you have lamb, try a garnish of fresh mint leaves -- and hold the mint jelly.
If there are times when white wine goes perfectly with red meat they are the rarest of moments. Although we once met a woman who claimed to drink only white wine, and only Riesling at that--even with a fine Filet Mignon--proving that while some make rules most taste is subjective.
Red Meat