And so we are led to the generality that white wine goes with fish; it does, but it is not alone.
Have you ever had chicken parmesan? If so, you know that a red wine can go with chicken; in this case, the red would be a southern Italian wine like Salice Salentino or Brindisi.
Perhaps you have had smoked chicken with a tangy mustard sauce--it needs a white wine all right but one with lots of fruit and perhaps even some spiciness, like Riesling or maybe Gewurztraminer.
The only time a good Chardonnay seems to marry with chicken is when the chicken is either cordon blued (don't see much of that these days) or a simple preparation with medium spices.
That same Chardonnay, however, can make your trout or soft shell crabs sing, especially if it retains the true fruit character of the grape and is not produced in a buttery/oaky style, a style of wine that defies most foods.
Incidentally, most shell fish are best when prepared simply or eaten raw and paired either with a steely Chardonnay or a crisp Sauvignon Blanc, or other similar whites.
One favorite Italian-American dish at Christmas time is a hearty seafood chowder along the lines of a spicy New Orleans gumbo. In either case white wine will not do. The line up for such a chowder includes Zinfandel, Primitivo or other varietals that offer strength, fruit and a solid finish to stand up to the tomato-based, spicy dish.
And then there is salmon. It is a fish but it is a flavorful fish. Most white wines pale when faced with the fats and flavor intensity of salmon; instead it is a perfect match for Pinot Noir or maybe a Pinot Noir rose. The fruitiness and acidity of a clean New World Pinot Noir seem almost produced with grilled salmon in mind.
