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This page contains some of the articles featured in previous newsletters for your enjoyment. To see the html version of the newsletter, click on the appropriate link. 
June 16 
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Grape A to Z’s: Exploring Varieties
Cooking by the Glass Feature Recipe
Staff Picks

1.3, issued May 20, 04

Grape A to Z’s: Exploring Varieties
Hundreds of grape varieties around the world are used to make an array of interesting and delectable wines. How many 
have you tried? In this regular column, is-wine’s wine expert and co-owner Thomas Pellechia shares a few insights on one 
of our featured varieties.
Cannonau di Sardegna

The origins of the Cannonau grape are unknown. The general belief is that it appeared on the Italian island of Sardinia in the 14th century, brought from Spain, during a period of Spanish domination of the island, and that it is either the canonazo grape of Seville or the granaxa grape of Aragon. There is also a belief (also unsubstantiated) that the cannonau grape is actually grenache! However it got there, canonau vines acclimated quickly to Sardinia, spreading thorughout the island and now making up over 20 per cent of the island's grape vine plantings.

Despite the vast plantings of cannonau, the wine is produced in relatively limited quantity. This is so because of what is known as short-pruning, a system of training the vines that drastically curtails fruit production. Lately, the age-old pruning system is being replaced by the technique  espalier which produces more crop but results in a wine of lower alcohol, and a pleasantly spicy medium bodied structure.

Cannonau grows just about all over Sardinia, but it is considered best if grown on medium slopes of rich non-volcanic soil with minimum moisture and alkilinity.

To qualify for DOC* designation Cannonau wine must reach a minimum 13.5% alcohol and contain a maximum of 20 grams sugar per liter; it must be aged one year in oak or chestnut; and it can be blended (up to 10%) with such varietals as Bovale Grande (known locally as Girone) and/or Bovale Sardo (Muristello), Carignano, Pascale di Cagliari, Monica and/or Vernaccia di San Gimignano. The resulting wine is ruby red, with a vinous aroma, warm and balanced and with flavors that range from dry to slightly sweet.

Cannonau reaches "Superiore" designation after two years of aging and with minimum alcohol of 15%. There are three more designations that apply to increased levels of sugar; they are: 10 grams sugar per liter--Naturalmente Secco (15% alcohol); 10 to 25 grams sugar per liter--Superiore Naturalmente Amabile (14% alcohol); 40 grams sugar per liter--Superiore Naturalmente Dolce (13% alcohol).

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*DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) refers to Italy's controlled origin denomination system guaranteeing the provenance of the wine.

Cooking by the Glass Feature Recipe

Any excuse to have smoked salmon without the requisite bagel is always welcome. With warm weather, a cool fruity glass of Pinot Grigio, Tocai Friuliano or Riesling combine with Penne With Smoked Salmon for a truly satisfying meal.

Penne With Smoked Salmon for Two

2 tblsp. olive oil (1 for pasta)   2 1/2 quarts water
juice of 1/2 a lemon (for the water)
2 cups (16 oz) dry penne
3 cloves garlic, minced   1 shallot, chopped
5-6 oz. smoked salmon, in small pieces*
1/3 cup of semi-dry Riesling  1/4 cup dry Marsala
1 large red pepper, roasted and sliced in small pieces
1 cup broccoli tips     handful of kalamata olives, pitted
1 tsp. each chopped oregano and basil
crushed hot red pepper to taste
1/4 cup freshly grated Romano cheese
1/2 cup chopped parsley

Add 1 tblsp. olive oil, lemon juice to water in a large pot. Bring the water to a rapid boil and add pasta. Stir to separate pasta and stop it from sticking together. Cook pasta to al dente stage (slightly firm) according to package directions, and drain. Saute shallot until it becomes translucent in the rest of the olive oil in a large pan, then add the garlic and saute for 30 more seconds. Add the Riesling, broccoli tips and hot pepper. Cover and simmer under low heat for 5 minutes.

Add the pasta, salmon, olives, roasted peppers, oregano, basil and Marsala to the pan. Mix well, and then turn off heat. Add 1 serving to each pasta bowl.  Sprinkle with the grated Romano cheese and then sprinkle with chopped parsley.

Enjoy with a glass of cold Riesling, or Pinot Grigio.

*substitute the salmon for toasted walnuts, pine nuts, or anchovies for a tasty variation.

Staff Picks: Paul & Pinotage
"South Africa has always attracted me as an intriguing place to visit some day. So I was interested in trying its signature variety, the Pinotage, the first time I encountered it. Loved it. Ranging from a jammy, mouthful of dark berry with a chocolate nose to a smooth, medium-bodied wine with hints of smokiness, Pinotage comes in many enjoyable forms. The medium-bodied is-wine Pinno Pinotage is smooth, slightly smoky, and perfect for summer when a white will not do. And at such a great price, you can afford to drink it regularly."

is-wine to Show New Yorkers for Parks How to Pair Wine with Chocolate

New York City's innovative wine merchant is-wine will present its popular Pairing Wine with Chocolate seminar to New Yorkers for Parks, June 14 at The Urban Center.

As part of New Yorkers for Parks' ongoing fundraising efforts, the seminar will give participants an opportunity to learn how to successfully bring together two of life's approachable luxuries. Food & wine expert, author and is-wine co-owner Thomas Pellechia begins the seminar by introducing the basic aspects of wine and chocolate, as well as the chemical reactions that occur when both are combined. Then the tastings and comparisons begin.

Unusual but delicious pairings of wines with gourmet chocolates are a feature of the seminar. Various chocolates from premium chocolate producer Guittard Chocolate Company are matched with wines from the is-wine store selection. White chocolate will be tasted with a luscious Rosé Louis de Sacy Champagne made from 100% Pinot Noir grapes. Then dark chocolate will be matched with a New York State Merlot from Lenz and an elegant Pauillac. To round things off a Late Bottled Vintage Port will be paired with dark chocolate.  This combination is a wonderful alternative to a heavy dessert after a meal and will be a perfect end to the exploration. A Q&A session and further tasting ends the evening.

New York City's innovative wine merchant is-wine provides personable wine insight, food pairing suggestions, and opportunities to expand wine appreciation through its ever-changing global selection of approximately 100 wines covering more than 50 grape varietals. Its unique wines are specially selected for outstanding taste, quality, and price point.

New Yorkers for Parks (www.ny4p.org) is the only independent, citywide non-profit oganization that promotes and protects parks and open space in New York City.

Tickets are $75 each and may be purchased through Lynn McCary at rsvpny@aol.com. The seminar runs from 6:30-9:30 pm at The Urban Center at 457 Madison Avenue. Space is limited.
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1.2, issued May 6, 04

Staff Picks: Chris & a Dry Moscato

"I tend to favor the more offbeat wines with unusual, interesting flavors -- and good acidity. One of these is the Moscato Giallo currently on our shelf, a surprising wine in many respects. Aromatic with the typical fruity, peachy qualities of Moscato (which is made often sweet), the palate is bone dry and full of citrus, a food-friendly delight that cries out for a Salade Nicoise. Perfect for the coming summer, it also holds up well in the fridge after opening!"

Chris Matthews dates back with is-wine to when it was in the planning stages. Thomas met him on a Web site devoted to wine. When the shop opened, Chris wanted to be involved and so he has given a few hours each week ever since our doors opened.

In his "day job" Chris works for the European Commission based at the United Nations. Schooled in Europe, he speaks three languages fluently and one other language haltingly. He not only has traveled to many places where wine is produced, he has studied wine, earning a certificate at the International Wine Center, in NY City.

In the few hours a week that Chris spends at is-wine he is indispensable for his wine knowledge, his palate, and his friendly way with people. Chris also sometimes teaches is-wine classes with Thomas. If you have attended a class where the two teach together you know the difference in their approach to teaching, but the sameness in their approach to wine!


Grape A to Z’s: Exploring Varietals

Hundreds of grape varietals around the world are used to make an array of interesting and delectable wines. How many have you tried? In this regular column, is-wine’s wine expert and co-owner Thomas Pellechia shares a few insights on one of our featured varietals.

 
Barbera D'Alba

The Barbera grape's origins are unknown. The first written information about the grape appeared in the17th century; that document is preserved in the town of Nizza Monferrato, at the city hall. In the 18th century, at Turin, the first ampelography of grape varieties in Piedmont was codified--barbera was among them.

It has been said that the barbera grape mimics the character of the Piedmontese farmers who grow it: unassuming yet robust. Barbera produces strong, rustic and generous wines. Many Italians believe, rightly so, that Barbera wines should be aged five or six years after which they pair with roasted meats as well, if not better than, Piedmont's more famous red, Barolo. 

Barbera is grown in many parts of the Piedmont but it is most recognized when coming either from Asti or Alba; wines of the former are often lighter and more acidic while wines from the latter are usually forward, tannic and, with aging, better balanced in acidity.

Alba is surrounded by hills where barbera vineyards with northern exposure and at the bottom of near-flat valleys qualify for DOC designation. The earth is either part clay part sand and calcified. 

The DOC for Barbera D'Alba requires no particular aging (although a few years is preferable) but the wine must come in at a minimum 12% alcohol by volume, and the barbera grape must make up to 70% of the blend. Barbera D'Alba can be labeled "Superiore" if the wine is at least 12.5% in alcohol and it is aged in oak or chestnut for one year before release.


Cooking by the Glass

Tis the season for this most delicious spring/early summer treat. Soft Shell Crabs make a pleasing yet exotic dinner and are easy to prepare.

Soft Shell Crabs For Two with Garlic

3 cloves of garlic, chopped   3 tblsp. olive oil
4 tblsp. nslated butter   4 medium-sized soft shell crabs
1 cup milk   3/4 cup all purpose flour
1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper   juice of 1 lemon
1 large tomato, sliced into 1/4 inch pieces
handful of chopped parsley

Run water over the live crabs and clean thoroughly. Heat the olive oil at medium in a large pan. Sprinkle the cayenne into the oil.Spread the flour on a flat plate. Dip one crab at a time into the milk and then dip into the flour, giving a light coating on both sides. The idea is to get just a dusting of flour to stick.

Saute the crabs in olive oil and cayenne for two or three minutes on each side, or until golden brown. Remove from heat and drain in a colander over paper towels. Heat the butter under low heat. Toss the garlic into the butter, swirling until the butter turns brown and begins to foam. Turn off the heat and squirt the lemon juice into the butter and garlic mix. Serve the crabs on a plate, pour the garlic butter over them; put a slice of tomato atop and garnish with parsley. Dry, fruity, young and crisp Chardnnay or Sauvignon Blanc suits soft
shell crabs well.

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1.1, issued April 22, 2004
Staff Picks: Kathy & Northern Italians

“Since so many of my relatives live in the Valtellina/Valchiavenna area of Lombardy in the Italian Alps I am always on the lookout for a wine from that region here in New York. At is-wine we carry the rich and wonderful Sforzato (or Sfursat) from Triacca. This is a raisined red wine made from Nebbiolo grapes, lush and full of berry-like fruit. Delizioso!”

Our first staff member highlight focuses on the second in line in tenure at is-wine, Kathy Green. She has been with us since August, 2002. Kathy knows a thing or two about wine. She has friends and relatives in Italy and other parts of Europe, so she gets to taste wine whenever she visits, which is at least once a year. If you come into the shop, quietly, you might catch Kathy singing aloud, or at least humming.

That is because she is a trained singer, and damned good at it. Kathy and her groom have operated their own band (she singing, he backing up on keyboard). One day we will likely lose our redhead to a major recording studio, but until then we have Kathy Green on our side.

For those so inclined, Kathy is a vegetarian. She can make fine recommendations to pair wine with garden foods.

Grape A to Z’s: Exploring Varietals

Aglianico del Vulture & Mel Gibson: Aglianico is a red-grape variety widely planted in Southern Italy’s Basilicata. It is also known as Gnanico, Agliatica, Ellenico, Ellanico and Uva Nera. It is an ancient grape. Some argue that it was cultivated before the Roman Republic. The grape variety was likely introduced into Italy by the Greeks when they discovered Cumae. It's name was Hellenica (and then Hellanica) until the 15th century, when it became Ellanico (Aglianico). The grape was used in making Falernum, a wine that, in 121 BC, changed the wine world by shifting the focus in Rome from Greek wine to homegrown production. In Basilicata, Aglianico is cultivated mainly around Matera (filming locale of Mel Gibson’s latest pic), a hilly district in the Vulture territory with a volcanic terrain in the northwest of Basilicata.

Aglianico del Vulture received Denominazione di Origine Controllata status in 1971. Under strict rules, only vineyards situated on hilly terrain of volcanic origin and of good composition, at altitudes of between 200 and 700 meters above sea level are suitable for the DOC designation, and the wine must be aged a minimum of one year before release. DOC also requires a minimum alcohol level of 12.5°.  Under DOC a Vecchio (Old) Aglianico is allowed after aging at least three years, two of which in wooden casks. Riserva (Reserve) Aglianico must age five years, of which two in wood. Aglianico wine is usually ruby red and develops orange hues with aging. Its aroma is vinous, full and improves with aging, when its forward tannic quality softens and becomes delicate.

Although we have never tasted one, a sparkling (spumante) Aglianico is also produced in Basilicata.

Cooking by the Glass
 
Whip up this dish originally from Iran that captures the mood of sunny days and spring breezes. The cool taste of yogurt with fresh, ripened melon combine with garlic and cucumber to refresh the mouth and prepare you for the rest of a great meal.

Cold Yogurt Soup With Melon
3 cloves garlic, minced or pressed    1 large cucumber, chopped into tiny cubes
1 tblsp. extra virgin olive oil     16 oz. of plain yogurt
handful of mint leaves     a lemon, quartered
one ripe honeydew or similar melon, quartered

Mix first three ingredients into the yogurt. Squirt lemon onto the melon. Spoon out melon with spoonfuls of the soup. Enjoy.