Grape A to Z's: Exploring Varieties
Hundreds of grape varieties around the world are used to make an array of interesting and delectable wines. How many
have you tried? In this regular column, is-wine’s wine expert and co-owner Thomas Pellechia shares a few insights on one
of our featured varieties.
The origins of the Cannonau grape are unknown. The general belief is that it appeared on the Italian island of Sardinia in the 14th century, brought from Spain, during a period of Spanish domination of the island, and that it is either the canonazo grape of Seville or the granaxa grape of Aragon. There is also a belief (also unsubstantiated) that the cannonau grape is actually grenache! However it got there, canonau vines acclimated quickly to Sardinia, spreading thorughout the island and now making up over 20 per cent of the island's grape vine plantings.
Despite the vast plantings of cannonau, the wine is produced in relatively limited quantity. This is so because of what is known as short-pruning, a system of training the vines that drastically curtails fruit production. Lately, the age-old pruning system is being replaced by the technique espalier which produces more crop but results in a wine of lower alcohol, and a pleasantly spicy medium bodied structure.
Cannonau grows just about all over Sardinia, but it is considered best if grown on medium slopes of rich non-volcanic soil with minimum moisture and alkilinity.
To qualify for DOC* designation Cannonau wine must reach a minimum 13.5% alcohol and contain a maximum of 20 grams sugar per liter; it must be aged one year in oak or chestnut; and it can be blended (up to 10%) with such varietals as Bovale Grande (known locally as Girone) and/or Bovale Sardo (Muristello), Carignano, Pascale di Cagliari, Monica and/or Vernaccia di San Gimignano. The resulting wine is ruby red, with a vinous aroma, warm and balanced and with flavors that range from dry to slightly sweet.
Cannonau reaches "Superiore" designation after two years of aging and with minimum alcohol of 15%. There are three more designations that apply to increased levels of sugar; they are: 10 grams sugar per liter--Naturalmente Secco (15% alcohol); 10 to 25 grams sugar per liter--Superiore Naturalmente Amabile (14% alcohol); 40 grams sugar per liter--Superiore Naturalmente Dolce (13% alcohol).
*DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) refers to Italy's controlled origin denomination system guaranteeing the provenance of the wine.
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Barbera D'Alba--------
The Barbera grape's origins are unknown. The first written information about the grape appeared in the17th century; that document is preserved in the town of Nizza Monferrato, at the city hall. In the 18th century, at Turin, the first ampelography of grape varieties in Piedmont was codified--barbera was among them.
It has been said that the barbera grape mimics the character of the Piedmontese farmers who grow it: unassuming yet robust. Barbera produces strong, rustic and generous wines. Many Italians believe, rightly so, that Barbera wines should be aged five or six years after which they pair with roasted meats as well, if not better than, Piedmont's more famous red, Barolo.
Barbera is grown in many parts of the Piedmont but it is most recognized when coming either from Asti or Alba; wines of the former are often lighter and more acidic while wines from the latter are usually forward, tannic and, with aging, better balanced in acidity.
Alba is surrounded by hills where barbera vineyards with northern exposure and at the bottom of near-flat valleys qualify for DOC designation. The earth is either part clay part sand and calcified.
The DOC for Barbera D'Alba requires no particular aging (although a few years is preferable) but the wine must come in at a minimum 12% alcohol by volume, and the barbera grape must make up to 70% of the blend. Barbera D'Alba can be labeled "Superiore" if the wine is at least 12.5% in alcohol and it is aged in oak or chestnut for one year before release.
Aglianico del Vulture received Denominazione di Origine Controllata status in 1971. Under strict rules, only vineyards situated on hilly terrain of volcanic origin and of good composition, at altitudes of between 200 and 700 meters above sea level are suitable for the DOC designation, and the wine must be aged a minimum of one year before release. DOC also requires a minimum alcohol level of 12.5°.
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